White Goods

White Goods or Newtyle

2012-02-13T13:51:00.000-08:00

A thread on UCK! (or UKC if you must) a while back asked the question where is better for drytooling White Goods Or Newtyle

of course my initial reaction was "what a stupid question ......its White Goods"

And being a true bigot I gave that opinion having never been to Newtyle. All joking aside I was interested to see what this Drytooling magnet of the north was like but it never gave that much of a pull to warrant a dedicated trip so it was always going to be a secondary option event.

Well the time came about a couple of weeks ago when the weather crapped out on the BMC winter meet. So with the Masses from the meet WG,s regulars Si Frost, Dave Almond and myself went to See what the fuss was aboot !

finding the holes,
thanks to Jen Olsen for the stolen Photo

First impressions were a little underwhelming and just what I was expecting really ...

Grotty - check
Muddy - check
Overgrown save a few beaten footpaths (see muddy) - check
Dark/ Dank - check
Smacks you in the face with lethargy - check
Irrationally cold - check

I think all of the above are somewhat compulsory criteria for a drytooling crag no matter where you are.

Newtyle, not unepxectantly, felt a little like the welsh slate tooling areas if you took all of the joy out of the world and played a looped tape of little girls sobbing. Kalymnos it was not.

Drilled pockets, Bomber placements, dictated spans and no options of intermediates or alternatives do little to enthuse a dwarf with a negative ape index, so standing at the foot of the routes in the Fast and Furious area I wasn't exactly over run with enthusiasm. What little I had was quickly kicked in the balls as I watched Mr Boswell warm, every move looked massive and dynamic, huge swings linking each sequence of more powerful moves... eek Time to Run home boy

once on the routes, route finding is tricky, the dim light and invisible pockets add a certain element but you soon get used to the dynamic nature of the climbing and as long as you have intimate knowledge of the routes or have someone at hand to shout at you then the climbing is very good and extremely engaging.

The Grading it always about the grades isnt it.

The grades at newtyle we found were very comparable to those at the goods which surprised me immensely considering that we just plucked some numbers out of the air when putting up the first few routes and subsequently grade all the others with reference to them.

Torch Lite M11
a Torch and a rain hat would be handy
Photo - James Dunn

The Major differences I thought was what I call the pop off factor, At white goods I very rarely fail on a route due to letting go of my axe, most likely I am spat off by a poor placement or a broken hold, but at Newtyle even the dodgy hold Greg pointed out and told us to go past before clipping felt solid compared to many of the WG holds so the only way of coming off was if you let go .....this as I found out was easily done once the concrete pump set in.

So my verdict (in true political manner)

Both have merits;

WG - for true Scottish style mixed, learning to trust your placements, getting strong

Newtyle - for turning you into a beast and giving you the mother of all calf burns

for a man who doesn't like drilled routes I had a blast....oh and so I dont upset James and he takes back his photos
"Newtyle is Better".......... ;)

Updated topos January 2012

2012-01-15T11:12:00.001-08:00

Was Scotland Closed ?

2012-01-09T03:43:00.000-08:00

You would have thought so if you visited the Goods this weekend. I know in the past we have joked about our little crag being busy but Blimey! Sunday was practically sold out.

With weather driving myself and Dave Almond back from Scotland early we had decided to head out to the Goods and meet up with Ramon for some real climbing.

Ramon as ever was in full get strong mode in Prep for his Trip to Europe in the next couple of weeks and had driven up from London with Young Will Hardy. From the Luxury of his pop up tent pitched just off the road Ramon could prepare for his assault on the crag. When we arrived he was already Brewing his first coffee and while he supped this he spoke about his ascent of what was the lip project in the power pact area. As Ramon himself reported, Tim Emmett made the first Ascent just weeks ago naming it “Stump man” and Giving it a proposed M10+ . Ramon only took two goes to get the tick which is an indication of just how strong he is getting and with this significant second ascent I am without a doubt that he will be ticking his goal of Mission Impossible later this year.

Young Will also looked please with himself as he told us about his ascent of Jaz M8

As we moved up to the crag we noticed another Pair already on Warming up “Christ its only 9.30am”

Malcolm Bass and Paul (sorry didn’t catch your surname) had like ourselves planned on a trip to Scotland, with the forecast being somewhat Shite the pair changed Direction headed south from North Yorkshire and ended up at our Damp and dirty little not so secret.

While we all played on our respective Routes of choice, more parties arrived and from Sheffield this time. People are traveling to this place.

The Sheffield Crew Did well and a number of them quickly made short work of Left Wall and Jaz before giving Left Over Goods a bloody good effort as the light faded.

I have to say it put a smile on my face to see everyone there enjoying themselves and appreciating the work we have all put in to turn this Shity fly tipping area into a drytooling asset. Well done to all involved.

While myself and Dave socialized Ramon continued his crag onslaught Lapping the “Finnsh Start M10”, and “White Goods M8+” and ticking “Left Over Goods M9+”

Thats will be why he’s so strong then.

“no one ever did anything by sitting on the couch” Ramon

Mr. Emmett climbs the "Lip Project"

2012-01-01T07:03:00.000-08:00

Tim on his first attempt of "Stump Man". Any clues for the name

On the 30th of December Tim Emmett climbed the Lip Project on the Power Pact cave. He called it "Stump Man" and he hasn't given a grade yet, but talks were of M10+. My guess is that it took him three attempts, as I was there for the first two and I assume he sent it the next time, as he would have done it the second attempt if he hadn't dropped his tool. If I get more news, I'll post them up.

On a different note, I'm updating the current topos to reflect all the recent developments. So please if you have any recent addition, pictures or opinion on grades, please let me know at ramonmarin2@yahoo.es

Happy cranking folks

Ramon

Tim started the Lip Project from the start of Mental Block, which I think it's harder but safer. Some loose rock on the start of the Lip Project

A lot of fig4 and fig9 action

Finding the first blind hook after the ledge is tricky

Left Wall Shocker

2011-12-22T00:15:00.000-08:00

I didnt believe it but its true Pete Harrison has only bloody gone and done it.

It seems the poor winter conditions have sent this man insane, not only has he gone and Drytooled his way up LEFT WALL ...but he bolted the fecking thing aswell.

"Left Wall" takes the obvious wall on the left of the Grotty corner we call "Cenotaph" in the kitchen Garden area at white Goods.

at M5+/M6 it will make a popular addition to the area I am sure.

Especially with the tropical weather we are having at the moment. I will post some photos of the area as soon as I get some.

Awesome Walls Drytooling Comp 24th March 2012

2011-12-14T01:41:00.000-08:00

Ladies, Gents, Beauties and Beasties. Just a quickie

I don't know how but we have done it.... Awesome Walls Liverpool have just told me that they are going to put on a Drytooling Event.

With the assistance of Pete Hill (drytooling uk) They will be hosting what they hope to be the biggest Drytooling competition this side of the border.

With the heats consisting of Boulder problems and top roping routes and the Finals held on the Awesome Back wall it should be a good event.

Keep the 24th March 2012 free in your calendar ... Maybe you could make a weekend of it and we could all head to the Goods the next day to really polish us off.

Mammut Drytooling Festival Awesome Walls

where is that winter.

2011-12-08T07:07:00.000-08:00

Well with winter teasing us the goods has proven to become quite the place to be seen over recent weeks.

With visits from Parnell, Turner and Emmett our once dirty yet quiet hideout of a crag is now run of the mill training and starting to feel like Stanage during threshers week....well not quite.

But the Action continues along with the new faces and many of the old faces have been popping up and we have even begun work on some new lines thanks to Mr Industrious Pete Harrison. News on them when they are done (for now steer clear of anything that looks new and is not in the topo as we need to rid them of the loose blocks above Cheers)

In the mean time I though I would let you watch this little snippet of the up and coming full length 3D film dedicated to white goods. it was only a matter of time...we all new that. ...I believe Tom Cruise is up for the part of Dave Garry and Goeorge Cluney was mentioned for Si Frost...TBC

Are you having it about them Crows?

2011-11-14T08:56:00.000-08:00

Hoooraah ! we're back at the goods.

It was good to get back on Axes after 9mths absence. I was however a little nervous at first. There is something about the place that just puts the willies up me. It could be something to do with the fridge size blocks on the floor or the fact that Neily G took a direct hit to the bonce and subsequently received a fractured scull only 8mnths ago but I couldn’t be sure as the place has always held an air of mystery in my subconscious.

This air was made thicker by new information that we received while enjoying lunch;

The many golf balls that you find dotted about the place, we were told, are the result of mischievous crows.

This information was shared with the group by a certain well know local activist in all honesty.

Later we pointed out that there was an outside chance that the presence of said balls may have relevance to the proximity of the 9 hole golf course located above the crag.

But who could be sure?

It turns out half of team big number may have been Half correct. Ravens do collect golf balls. Though it didn’t stop us having a good laugh about it and I think it’s fair to say that all of the Goods balls once belonged to the club and its members.

http://www.wildaboutbritain.co.uk/forums/british-birds/65502-raven-stealing-golf-balls.html

Anyway here’s some photos.

There are still some and I guess always will be loose bits here folks so take care out there.

Rob Pitt on the uber classic Jaz

Adam Crook Working White Goods M8+

"Look Ma No Hands"
the dubious No hand rest on White Goods M8+

Awesome Walls Liverpool

2011-11-11T04:14:00.001-08:00

Ladies and Gents

If you ever find your way to Liverpool check out Awesome walls drytooling area.

9 lines and route ranging from M5- M8ish.Some thugy, some technical but all entertaining. Its not quite white goodssteep but its out the rain and has lighting.

At £7 a pop it’s cheaper than using yourhands.

Adam Crook on the technical M7/8

Neily G working hard

The White Goods esk roof.

This route emulates Doorstep challenge, so if you fancy working it in prep for the flash er hem! ...better get there quick as I will be resetting soon.

Enjoy.

oh and there are whispers of a competition at the end of the season. Big routes on the competition wall the lot.... but don't tell any one OK.

Team White Goods Winter Round Up

2011-04-05T03:25:00.000-07:00

Well the season is officially over, Axes are dull and rock shoes have already been donned for some sea cliff action .

So here’s a quick round up of what us dirty dirty toolers have been up to.
First and Foremost I think we have to start with:

Team Travel - Rob Gibson and Ramon Marin
as they never cease to piss me off .

Rob kicked off early taking Full advantage of the superb Welsh conditions and made the 3rd of Cracking up (IX 9) but sadly took a tumble and fractured his ankle trying a new line with Si Frost on the Black Ladders. Rob being Rob shook this off in a matter of weeks just in time for his trip to Kandersteg with Ramon

Full of vigor Ramon and Rob with support from there new friends at Alpkit ate their way through a number of classic hard mixed and Ice routes before putting up couple of Scottish ish routes of their own … it was on such occasion that Ramon feeling a little left out after Rob’s lob jumped off loosing a few moments memory and gaining a bad hand along the way.

This you would think would set hop along Gibson and Forgetful back a little … you like I are wrong. The pair continued crank out mixed and drytooling lines for a good few weeks afterward.

On return to Blighty Ramon put all his recent activity into good practice and took home first spot in the London tooling comp.

Ramon M8+ onsight with bad hand after his fall ....good lad !

Full details of the pairs travels and shinanagans can be found here Robs Blog and here Ramon's Blog

Team Try Hard - Dave Almond, Dave Garry (me)

Mr. Almond is a relative new comer to White Goods and on first inspection he like most hated it…things are very much different now though!. A late starter this year Dave skipped the Welsh frenzy and opted to go direct to Scotland without passing go. Not a bad choice from the quintessential weekend warrior

With Si frost he kicked the season off with Sioux Wall VIII 8 (or VI 8 if you believe Mr. Almond) Several more trips again with Simon saw him take down a number of classics and even the 3rd assent of Trail of Tears, Later on Dave introduced us to and teamed up with Helen Reynard for War and Peace and the most run out accent of Bulgy we have ever seen.

After watching Dave climb and listening to his rants, Helen has vowed to pay a visit to the goods this summer. Not a bad effort considering she lives in Aberdeen.

Myself ..well I had a mixed season with ups and downs – being I’ll for most of it was a real kick in the nads and watching everyone else get there fix was somewhat frustrating. but never the less I managed to get fit enough for a quick sprint finish and progress was made, most of all fun was had.

Daddylong legs VIII 9, War and Peace VII 8, Pick’n mix IX 9

What was most pleasing, was that I found them all quite easy … (smug grin) gotta love white goods
more of my stuff here

Team Big numbers - Masers Harrison and Frost

Pete Harrison belayed by Si Frost kicked of the season with the controversial and ground breaking route of Wooly Mammoth XI 11. This line caused a real storm due to its continental feel and bare rock to a hanging icicle.. but what a line. A classic of the future I am sure, just as long as the conditions come back. Pete worked the route ground up then pulled the ropes and made a clean accent. We all look forward to the onsight. V12 News

Pete and Simon also went on to try don’t die of ignorance only to find the crucial bit of ice missing on two occasions. Motivation for the route quickly dropped though as it’s a long way to drive to be disappointed by conditions.

Simon’s season seemed to go on and on. After trying several new lines in North Wales with Rob Gibson and Pete, Si spent the next few months making regular trips to Scotland and ticking some quality lines. As mentioned above he made the 3rd accent of Trail of tears and grabbed an early season accent of Sioux wall with Dave Almond , nabbed Daddy long legs and War and Peace with me and made the 3rd Accent of Pic’n mix with Pete Harrison and myself.

Pete Harison , Simon Frost and Dave Garry
3rd Accent of Pic'n Mix IX 9

Team Bump the Head

Sadly, early season also saw one of our good friends fall victim to rock fall at our beloved crag.

Neil Griffith season looked like it was going well, as winter gripped North Wales Neil opened his account with a couple of new lines, Third Trinity Groove and Devils Dive. These were some of the last routes produced by the hive of activity to make the new guide.

When the weather took a slight turn for the worse Neil headed to the goods for a bit of training. This was when a rock fell from above the roof of White Goods hitting him on the head. Luckily Neil is a sensible boy and was wearing a helmet. This with no question saved his life. Neil was left with a fractured scull and C7 vertebrae and was rushed to Liverpool for treatment. Gladly I can inform you all that Neil is well on the way to recovery and thoroughly sick of Day time TV.

Get well soon Neily G

Pic'n Mix

2011-03-05T09:56:00.000-08:00

Simons internet less for a wee bit so this photo will have to do until he writes something worth reading.

Thanks to Micheal for the photo and for hunting us down to give it to me.

Cheers

at the belay Pete Harrison, Si Frost and just out of sight Guy Robertson and Pete Macphereson on the first Accent of The Gathering VIII 9 ...so called because of the shared belay and amusement had .....or so I hear

who would would have thought you would have a crowd on a belay like that.

My full Account here Blog

Have I ever told you how much I love Lochain !!!

2011-03-01T00:51:00.000-08:00

Well Have I ?

I cant ever remember a bad trip or route in Corrie an Lochain ..honest all of them have been 3* in my eyes, even when the wind is slapping you about and your getting a free facial from spindrift.

This Weekend proved no different .. after an unsuccesful trip to the Ben to have a go at (Shush..we cant say!!) only to find that there was ice everywhere but on the crucial bit, Si Frost, Pete Harrison and myself headed over to the norries for something a tad easyier.

Pick n' Mix IX 9 (or Nevermind as it is in the guide book)

Its the route Parnell and Emmett did in the HXS dvd......... I asked the boys to give me a "Go on Parnell just yard it" in an Emmett esk squeek as I was moving through the crux but sadly they declined.

Simon is still up in Bonnie so you might have to wait until next week for a full report on his blog. But it will be here eventuallySomething to die for

Teetering tower of terror toppled

2011-02-20T11:26:00.000-08:00

ooo I feel like I should work for the Mail with headlines like that.

Just a note to say that most of the loose stuff above White Goods, Doorstep challenge and Jaz has been repositioned to the base of the crag ...this includes the nasty bit the tree has been slowly nudging ground ward. the gravel patio is coming on nicely.

There are still a few little bits here and there so please wear your lid at all times ... its a life saver !!!

Thanks to Matt and Adam for giving us a hand ..

I will get some more cleaning done as soon as I get chance.

Scotland calls though so it could be a wee while

Clean up at White goods sector

2011-02-14T05:58:00.000-08:00

Hello all

Just a quick note to let you know that on the 19th Feb I will be doing a little maintenance at the white goods sector.

riding loose rock and testing bolts etc.

I wouldn't climb in this area while this is going on.

If you want to help let me know.

Cheers

Dave

Bonnie Jockland

2011-02-01T01:28:00.000-08:00

Quick trip to the Norries this weekend saw Dave Almond, Si Frost and Myself heading home tired and content.

Score Card

War and Peace VII 8 got two accents
Bulgy VII 7
Daddy Longlegs VIII 9

I am sure Simon will have a full report and photos on his blog soon Something to die for

Twisted Fire Starter

2011-01-25T05:31:00.000-08:00

For those of you familiar with the crag and its recent history, you will be aware of the growing pile of green waste situated at its base. This pile of trees benches and shrubbery was formed by the illegal tipping of waste from the golf course above. Over recent months this waste had engulfed the start of the route Ready Steady Hook and had put a stop to any future attempts and further development.

Well last Tuesday I got a call from Simon Frost informing me of a a fire that had taken place at the crag. Now we had in the past joked about setting the whole thing ablaze during one of our beer fulled pow wows, but had he really gone and done it?

Well thankfully NO !!

After a chat with one of the locals it apeares that the usual subjects are responsible ..KIDS!!
and on further inspection it certainly looks like it as there are smaller fires dotted about the place, so my theory is that they lit something and threw it to the back of the pile setting the whole thing alight, and they did a grand job as its still slowly burning away.

The Good news is the base of RSH is now clear of debris and should be climbable ...though I would hold off getting on it until we have had a good inspection as we don't know how much heat was generated by the fire and what it may have done to the stability of the rock or the bolts. The Tat on the lip as you can imagine is history. We might also need to rename it "Burnt Ready Steady Hook" and advise against wearing white when on it.

Our Friendly Neighbourhood Local also seems to think that this will put an end to the dumping . Fingers Crossed then hey !

Apologies for the quality of this phot but I had my phone set on text grade photos and forgot to switch it ...

Heres one of Adam on White Goods M8+, possibly the best route at the crag for doing laps to get your pump on.

White Goods M8+ hmmm

2011-01-17T04:48:00.000-08:00

Well the rain and lack of white stuff sent us back to the goods on Sunday. The Plan for me was quick warm up on Robs new line White Goods and then off to Power Pact for another go (yawn) at Mental block...something about that line that just dosent seem to work for me..

With the rain drumming down and the entire crag dripping down our necks it may have taken a little while to get motivated but it came eventually. On my last visit "Pre lurgy" I managed to flash the Finnish Start, a pumpy little M10 that takes the direct start to Tumble in the Jungle ,so I thought a quick flash of White Goods was well on the cards. I was wrong. This route like the others to its left (doorstep & left over goods) pack a powerfull punch once you reach the roof.

White Goods I feel is a tough M8+ to onsight, I managed it second go but with some undignifide grunting and farting though the fart could have been Ali on Jaz to right.

So's not to spoil your onsight all I will say it Milk the rest beneath the roof and prepare to wrestle.

Good route ** stars for me

Murphy's Law (the Fecking sod)

2011-01-11T03:09:00.000-08:00

Over the last month or so the cold spell hit and hit hard. North Wales was once again Narnian esk!

Rob ticked Cracking up, Pete caused a storm with Wooly Mammoths, The New Guide came out and became the quickest book ever to become out of date (still a great buy though) as New routes continued to go up each day. Boarders and Skiers cut fresh lines through thick Pow and even Terminator got a repeat...

And where was I ......... at home on the couch. Attacked by some strange immune system munching virus that’s left me weaker than Dawn French’s diet commitments, I was left a mere spectator impatiently waiting for the day I could take a piss without needing a lie down afterward. I fecking hate you Murphy

That day came 2 weekends ago, and with a pocket full of fitness and bags of enthusiasm I headed to the Ladders with Pete Harrison to try a new line. This is once again when Murphy smiled upon me. After the slowest walk in on record we got the Crag, it was Black. No climbing here for me today.

after wee nose at some potential new lines we headed out for a play on Ibex in the Slate quarries.

on first inspection I thought it was a bit shite.. 'pre drilled holes! I mean you may as well just pop on a few bolt ons a set it properly. Once on it though I actually enjoyed it and found the climbing pretty good. Took a quick squiz to the left at Robs new line "Bambi" (the hardest M9 in the world?) Pete spoke of long moves and lunges...in my weakened state I gave a miss.

This weekend just gone I felt a little stronger and spurd on by a couple of ok sessions at the wall I was keen to give the real stuff another go. With Pete again we headed up to Clogwyn Du, I have been keen to try travesty direct since last season and pre viral meltdown I felt I was fit and ready for it. I wasn’t planning to get on it just so soon after being I’ll but as Pete had his eye on a line above TD he wondered if I fancied a go.

well you can only fail cant you!

And Fail I did... 6 falls and a submission. Tricky little number and not aided by the good hook just before the high chimney being iced up and not providing any purchase at all.

Ah well at least now I know the numbers for next time when I am back to full fitness.

Although looking at the forecast I could be given a bit of time to get fit before I get another crack at it.

After all the faffing about it was getting on and rather than aid the line to get to Pete's project, Pete spied another...and its a doozy. White goods on gear. More on that once its done.

For now though its back to the vitamin supplements, blood tests and the new Liverpool Bouldering wall http://www.theclimbinghangar.com/ looks good huh !

Anyone at the goods this weekend ..I think I can squeeze a session in sunday if I can hand the kid of to Nanna and Gan gan.

Gibson Cracks Up

2010-12-08T01:51:00.000-08:00

Just a quick "Well Done Sunshine" to Rob Gibson who successfully made an assent of Cracking Up IX 9 on Clogwyn Ddu yesterday.

And to all those with full time jobs - See what your capable of if you don't have a mortgage to pay !!!

Tother News

Dave Almond, Neil Griffiths, Adam Crook put up Third Trinity Groove VII 7 , Well done chaps.

MORE IMPORTANT

2010-12-06T05:32:00.000-08:00

If any of you knobs who went dry tooling at Millstone turn up at WG you'd better hope i'm not about

Mr G, I can't believe I'm saying this but maybe there should be some kind of advice on this blog about where not to drytool!!!!

IMPORTANT

2010-12-03T06:39:00.000-08:00

Take care when parking.

Keep vehicles parked on ONE side of the road (the grass verge) the other side is a passing place.

Vehicles have been parked on both sides of the road and this pisses off the previously understanding farmer when he tries to get through the small gap. Hopefully he will only plough the offending cars and not start using the land* he has shooting rights for.

*the White Goods crag

slightly old news

2010-11-30T14:05:00.001-08:00

Some potential new lines have been in the back of my mind for a while now so it has been satisfying to tick a couple of them off the list.

White Goods had an obvious gap on the main wall in between Doorstep and Jaz, now that gap has been filled by the route White Goods M8+. Matt and I bolted the route top down, somehow I got the easier angled head wall to bolt, however I had to clean a lot of loose blocks off the lip. Matt then did some strenuous bolting from the roof down!!

The bulk of the climbing up to the roof is provided by good cracks and ledges which I managed to on-sight before running out of ideas and enthusiasm at the roof. White Goods should provide a good intermediate between Jas and Tumble in terms of difficulty.

Will at the top of Guava Half

Down at the Kitchen.... Will and I cleared some ivy from the wall left of the tree to give 2 lines of similar difficulty as Apples and Pears (M6/7).
Just left of the tree is Guava Half that got it's FA by Will after Pete and I persuaded him to give the route a go. I bet that deadpoint to the flatty was exciting!!

Will demonstrating one (good) way

up the bald headwall of Guava Half

Moving left again is Agent Orange that featured a crimpy axe head mantle rock-over move during my ascent (possibly cheating but good fun).

The most interesting line is the obvious crack that was lead on gear (next to the stepped corner crack - a project for someone with big cams?). It goes at about M5 and I strongly recommend stepping right to the Agent Orange lower off before topping out. Apocalypse Now.

Winter Tally So Far

2010-11-30T01:48:00.000-08:00

Well I got it ..that text I mentioned from Simon Frost …. It read quite simply - “Sioux Wall”

“Well done” I thought ….Before quickly adding “you fecking arseholes”. …

So with a bee in my bonnet and a twist in my knickers the next morning my self and Neil Griffiths headed of to Clogwyn Ddu to have a crack at travesty and even the score up a bit.

Sadly although the weather was fantastic the conditions were not! And as we approached idwal it was clear that Clogwyn Ddu was Black and not going to be climbed by me that day. So after some umming and Arrrring we headed over to the Devils Kitchen. Neily had spotted a very damp VS that in his eyes would make a great winter line and that after a wee search on the tinterweb he hadn’t found any info of a winter ascent. We were on and he was right it provided three very interesting pitches.

Devils Dive V6

Good choice given the conditions as the rest of the crag was bare.

So after round one – Welsh First Winter Ascent V’s Classic Scottish Hard line.

Will it be Team Garry/Griffiths or Team Frost/Almond

I know who I would vote for!!

Its Here its HERE...... well almost

2010-11-24T01:45:00.000-08:00

Ladies and gents it looks like the winter is here.... lets look at the evidence.

UKC has the conditions threads up with the usual "What time does such and such form", "will I be able to climb whatever on Sunday".

The Winter blogs have started up again - Baggy & Andy mountains (keep up the good work chaps)

And the real meat of it: I had to dig out the ice scraper this morning and my handies got a bit chilly

So it looks conclusive ....

Well !there is snow in Bonnie and the usual early routes are getting done in the Norries. Simon and Dave Almond are heading up for a play at the weekend so I am sure I will get a call on Saturday for a gloat. Mean while in North Wales snow has been falling and I am lead to believe is currently at 500m with freezing levels set to hit 700m later today. Further Snow and low temps are expected for the rest of the week .... :) so maybe I shouldn't be so cynical............ free Sunday anyone?

The Goods Warriors

2010-11-10T06:20:00.000-08:00

Torquing across roofs in Tumble

Rob on the 'scottish crack' in Tumble

Pre-bolting meditation

Simon about the successfully redpoint Tumble in the Jungle

The Visionary on his mission. You want a coffee up there Rob?

Simon Frost on the burly start on Power Pact

Pull and reach Simon!

Simon starting the cool section of torquing and heel-hooking in Power Pact

Getting out the roof in Mental Block

Dave on some of the cool move on Mental Block

Weekend Warriors Wage War on White Goods

2010-11-08T06:16:00.000-08:00

Weekend warriors wage war on white goods …Or something sensational like that.

This weekend saw the usual suspects gravitate on mass to the white goodness and played witness to some new comers from the far East ..... well close enough!!

Score card:

Ramon flashed Tumble and Simon ticked it 4th go

Having warmed up on tumble I was reminded of how much quality climbing there is on the route (it really is fecking awesome) Inspired and drawn into a "send cycle" (as my canadian friend calls it) I then flashed the Finnish Start and got brought back to normality with a bump by being spat off Mental Block (again!!),Falling and hurting my arse cheek in the process…

The couple of new faces from Sheffield (sorry I have forgotten names) managed to flash Jaz and in Plastic boots ..good work chaps hope to see you back this way soon.

Meanwhile in a silenced bubble of his own Rob (the Aid) Gibson feverishly worked away on bolting the massive horizontal line of his next project. Once done it will undoubtedly be the most impressive line in the power pact area and by far the hardest at the entire venue.

Rob I have a few bolts if you would like me to finish it off for you next time I’m there…I wont try it honest

All in all another Pleasant valley Sunday here in washing symbol land.

Topo (2009 edition)

2010-09-22T14:06:00.000-07:00

Credit where credit is due. In this case credit is due to Ramon for designing the topo.

White Goods Topo

Things you should know......
Climbing is banned during spring due to birds nesting in cracks.
Nearly all of the routes have been bolted assuming that the first bolt will be clip sticked (stuck?) prior to an ascent.
Please park on the road and be considerate of the neighbours (unless you see the freak who is burning cable to extract the copper).
There is a new line up a (chossy?) corner to the left of the Kitchen Garden.
Ready Steady Hook is currently un-climable.
The Finnish Start uses holds in the vertical crack to surmount the roof (anyone for a second ascent?).

Although it's not my place to tell people where to climb I think it would be sensible to limit any future developments (as if!) to well defined areas and leave the rest of the crag in its natural state. The map below would be a starting point and can be carved in stone later if 'everyone' (thats you Dave) agrees.

The un-named sector marked on the map might have potential for some trad mixed lines (bolted lower offs recommended) as there is a slightly slabby wall down there somewhere, but I might be barking up completely the wrong tree with this idea?

here we go...........

2010-09-22T13:27:00.000-07:00

I can feel a chill in the air.
Must be time to dig out all of that winter kit and find out what should have been sharpened last season.

After being rained off Nesscliffe Simon and I went to check out WG for the first time this season and noticed a few slight changes. Firstly the bonfire has been enlarged and should go really well on the 5th but I dont think Ready Steady Hook will ever be the same again (it needed a bit of loose removing anyway). Secondly a new line has been bolted in the corner to the left of the Kitchen Garden. Good effort to whoever has risen to this challenge, however I think there were better lines.

and now I think of it, it seems like the White Goods sector has been cleaned up. Nice one whoever took on that job. thanks.

where's your drill Dave?

Has "The Goods" season been brought forward?

2010-07-19T06:13:00.000-07:00

The summer started off full of promise. Long hot days saw previously sneaky evening trips to local crags become the norm. Tues and Thursdays nights at Dinbren left the weekend for big Trad routes ...or that was the intention. The reality generally saw us head back to Dinbren as I am really loving that place at the moments with its intricate moves and powerful undercuts. LPT has even had a few visits, I really cant believe that I hadn’t been there before, its such a good area and not too far of a drive. Truth is that outside of the winter climbing I am yet to do a single trad route this year (thus unheard of in previous years) and I am wholeheartedly stuck in a Less is More situation. Following the winter of "more routes than I have ever done in a season" this current lack of route numbers has felt like a bit of a hose pipe ban in the current dry spell. This is not so bad though, I am still a happy little camper, and its all down to my all new friend the "redpoint" I am actually beginning to see what potential I have ...and that drought of mine is punctuated by welcome spells in a large paddling pool. Some numbers go down while others go up.

But now that the clouds have formed once more and wet weekends are building momentum ...is it time to head back to the goods ....It was after all the place where red pointing started for me, so to head back with a new attitude more attuned to the sport mentality will be interesting...

Maybe I am wishing summer away too quickly ....it is a Tad earlier for the ubiquitous UKC conditions page...and I do have Kalymnos to prepare for, (I have not asked but I don’t think they are keen on drytooling out there), But maybe just maybe we should take advantage of what the weather throws at us….damp shity days = The Goods + a good Pub.

I will give it some thought a get back to you with a result

What has Dry tooling ever done for you ?

2010-03-17T07:34:00.000-07:00

Dry tooling is a fad, its just clip up pretend winter climbing isn’t it.

………………… just look at what it does for us part time and not so part time climbers.

Rob and Ramon have had a heck of a winter, swaning off to some of the world premiere mixed and Ice climbing venues, grunting and gurning up both hard and classic lines.

Rob even managed to drag himself up to Bonnie Jock land for some proper stuff.

Read more here:

http://ramonmarin-uk.blogspot.com/

And here:

http://font8a.blogspot.com/

Mean while here in Blighty both myself and Simon have been taking full advantage of what was the best Welsh Winter this youngster (cough) has ever witnessed.

A real hype was generated this season whether that be due to the fantastic conditions or the general phyche of those involved (probably both) but the results where fantastic. New lines popping up everywhere and the numbers kept creeping.

Memorable lines for the White goods crew would be:

Flanders Summer Line VII 8 – Black Ladders

Black Out VII 8 – Lech Du

Erazerhead VIII 8 Clogwyn Du Simons Views here http://www.simonfrost.blogspot.com/

But many other significant new lines where also produced

Such as:

Tora Bora VIII 8 - Black Ladders

Travesty Direct IX 9 Clogwyn Du

More info here

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=261&ngroup=2

So speaking from the personal view of a guy fairly new to winter climbing and one that had in the past looked at routes like travesty and thought “feck me sunshine that looks tough”, I am feeling the benefit of this Fad they call Dry Tooling. Now when I crick my neck up to look at steep winter lines I no longer produce a spoon full in my trousers, instead I confidently think “hmm how can we make it harder”

So all in all when I think of why I would want to spend dark dank weekends in a dark and danker hovel like "The Goods" I guess all I have to do is look back to this winter and all makes sence.

Tools in hands boys !!!

2009-12-07T00:01:00.000-08:00

For a quality topo visit

http://ramonmarin-uk.blogspot.com/2009/11/white-goods-topo.html

2009-12-06T23:46:00.000-08:00

Well, wet and windy weekends bode well for visiting the goods...however all this rain has not helped the stability of some of the routes.

After a few accents on Sunday the big flake at the top of Demolition wobbled loose and was removed by Simon.

The sequence is now a little different but I don't think it has effected the grade too much.

Be careful out there folks.

On a brighter note Rob managed the project left of Power pact and has duely named it Mental block (not sure why but it was the line with the fecking big trundle on it)

Mental block comes in at M10 ish

power unpacked

2009-08-26T09:29:00.000-07:00

The big roof left of Power Pact has been bolted.

Matt and I spent a bit of time hanging on some 6mm wire hangers and got all of the difficult bolts in. Problem is there doesn't seem to be any holds crossing the roof! the crack is sort of parallel (similar to the Winspit project) not like all of the other roof lines at WG that have useable pockets. So will need to get back up there and have a real close look.

Power Pact

2009-08-04T09:44:00.000-07:00

I had forgotten what an quality line this was! I went on it again this weekend for the first time since last year and it gave me a real wake up call.

The moves after the flake are so cool; leaning out to spot that vertical crack then clipping the loweroff without resorting to hooking the anchors are especially memorable.

This line is small fry compared to what is lurking in the depths though!

Setting the pace

2009-06-23T12:27:00.000-07:00

A bit of rain saturday drove a few people under the shelter of White Goods:

The score card:
Jaz 4 ascents
White Goods 1 ascent
Tumble 1 ascent
Finnish 1 ascent

Impressively Jaz, White Goods and Tumble were flashed by Andy. Not bad off season form!

my consensus grades

2009-06-23T12:10:00.000-07:00

Having seen quite a few ascents of the routes at WG I'm starting to think the grades should be changed a bit. How about:

Ready Steady Hook M10 *
The Finnish Start M10 **
Tumble in the Jungle M9 ***
Jaz M8 ***
White Goods M8+ **
Left Goods M9 **

Thats a lot of stars but these routes are good.

comments?

New routes

2009-06-23T12:06:00.000-07:00

I have been staying away from the axes since the end of feb (apart from a couple of visits to check out the route Ibex on the slate) but decided to check out White Goods last weekend. It was good to be back there! everything was dry and the routes looked good.

A line that i bolted through the roofs below Tumble had been a project since last year some time but i couldn't do the big move across the roof. Last autumn I found another way to cross the roof (more sneak past it really!) and then did the route on sat:

The Finnish Start M10**
Start on the horizontal flake below the roof, go up then traverse right above the overlap. Using the pocket in the roof span up and right in to the big crack then traverse back left using tiny pockets to reach Tumble at the bottom of the awsome final layback groove.

Looking at the crag there is a couple of new independant lines in the WG sector.

White goods grows in popularity

2009-01-14T03:16:00.001-08:00

What to Say !

It seems that the goods popularity is growing, but is this good thing ?

well I think so. As the crag was our dirty little secret for awhile I have felt compelled to keep an eye on the numbers using it via the log books on UKC and word of mouth and I have to say that this dark and dirty shameful little back water of climbing styles is actually growing in popularity. Does this mean that other filthy toolers have been out there sharpening picks obsessively, eagerley waiting the dawn of a new era and we have just given them a chink of light to grasp at, or by the fact that the crag is there are we just encouraging this silliness.

Ether way quite frankly I couldnt give a rats arse ...

All I wanted to say is that whether it be due to the winter or Traffic, some of the loose bits are getting looser so becareful Lads and Lasses. Just last week a flake (TBC) popped off doorstep leaving poor old Parnell looking groundward with a sore arse.

Its great to see the place getting used and enjoyed, but can I ask all to keep an eye on suspect rock and let us know if anything jumps out of place or needs removing. See below video for details

Cheers

Dave

2008-11-20T07:31:00.000-08:00

Well its been a while since we last updated ....and it wasnt because not much has happend ...

in fact quite the opposite actually.

Rob has (as ever) been feverishly at work on several new lines in the new "POWER PACT"area

well not strictly true as we bolted the first few lines early this year .I have just been to lazy to update it.

Yes a new area ....still the same outcrop but a little closer to the main road

The area was pointed out to us by a local and on first inspection we were impressed. getting to know it a little better and ridding it of the huge loose blocks it is looking very promising.
So far the area boasts two quality lines Power Pact (very pumpy M9) and Demolition (get your pump going M7)

FA's go to Rob and Ramon respectively

There are also a couple of project here too. Hands off.

Full details can be found here until I get a topo sorted.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3826

be sure to follow the Access notes as we don't want any trouble. (Park at WG and walk back down)

Big trundle on new line

2008-05-06T14:43:00.000-07:00

this big block was just sat on the ledge, it looked dodgy but only when it was gently pushed did we realise how little was keeping it up!! Now the ledge is clear it makes a good rest between the strenuous mantle and the strenuous roof on what is going to be one of the hardest lines at The Goods

The Climbing

2008-04-17T08:00:00.000-07:00

The Crag boasts two areas White Goods and Kitchen Garden, but we have recently been pointed in the direction of a very possible and a little bigger third. So plans to develop that will no doubt unfold in the future .

The Main Crag "White Goods" is about 16m of steep blocky climbing and currently has 5 lines on it. All bolted.

On initial inspection the rock looks dubious to say the least. large blocks beneath the crag do little for the confidence also, but the rock on the routes has settled and most of the necessary holds are now solid.

Five Routes ranging from D8 - D10

Doorstep Challenge was the first to go up. Having never done any Pure Dry tooling before we gave it D8 because we new it was harder than Scottish 8 so it had to be , didn't it ?

Shortly after that came Jaz D9 so named because it sounded like Daz..... genius I tell ya !

Then came our first visitor "Rob" who put up Left Over Goods D9+

Tumble in the jungle D10 Came a little while later

and finally Ready Steady Hook D10 again FA goes to Rob.

I still feel there are one or two lines to be had in this area so further development may come in the not so distant.

Its not the prettiest spot in the world but the climbings good

2008-04-11T13:37:00.000-07:00

White Goods Blog ...