Thursday, 16 February 2012
Monday, 13 February 2012
White Goods or Newtyle
A thread on UCK! (or UKC if you must) a while back asked the question where is better for drytooling White Goods Or Newtyle
of course my initial reaction was "what a stupid question ......its White Goods"
And being a true bigot I gave that opinion having never been to Newtyle. All joking aside I was interested to see what this Drytooling magnet of the north was like but it never gave that much of a pull to warrant a dedicated trip so it was always going to be a secondary option event.
Well the time came about a couple of weeks ago when the weather crapped out on the BMC winter meet. So with the Masses from the meet WG,s regulars Si Frost, Dave Almond and myself went to See what the fuss was aboot !
First impressions were a little underwhelming and just what I was expecting really ...
Grotty - check
Muddy - check
Overgrown save a few beaten footpaths (see muddy) - check
Dark/ Dank - check
Smacks you in the face with lethargy - check
Irrationally cold - check
I think all of the above are somewhat compulsory criteria for a drytooling crag no matter where you are.
Newtyle, not unepxectantly, felt a little like the welsh slate tooling areas if you took all of the joy out of the world and played a looped tape of little girls sobbing. Kalymnos it was not.
Drilled pockets, Bomber placements, dictated spans and no options of intermediates or alternatives do little to enthuse a dwarf with a negative ape index, so standing at the foot of the routes in the Fast and Furious area I wasn't exactly over run with enthusiasm. What little I had was quickly kicked in the balls as I watched Mr Boswell warm, every move looked massive and dynamic, huge swings linking each sequence of more powerful moves... eek Time to Run home boy
once on the routes, route finding is tricky, the dim light and invisible pockets add a certain element but you soon get used to the dynamic nature of the climbing and as long as you have intimate knowledge of the routes or have someone at hand to shout at you then the climbing is very good and extremely engaging.
The Grading it always about the grades isnt it.
The grades at newtyle we found were very comparable to those at the goods which surprised me immensely considering that we just plucked some numbers out of the air when putting up the first few routes and subsequently grade all the others with reference to them.
The Major differences I thought was what I call the pop off factor, At white goods I very rarely fail on a route due to letting go of my axe, most likely I am spat off by a poor placement or a broken hold, but at Newtyle even the dodgy hold Greg pointed out and told us to go past before clipping felt solid compared to many of the WG holds so the only way of coming off was if you let go .....this as I found out was easily done once the concrete pump set in.
So my verdict (in true political manner)
Both have merits;
WG - for true Scottish style mixed, learning to trust your placements, getting strong
Newtyle - for turning you into a beast and giving you the mother of all calf burns
for a man who doesn't like drilled routes I had a blast....oh and so I dont upset James and he takes back his photos
"Newtyle is Better".......... ;)
of course my initial reaction was "what a stupid question ......its White Goods"
And being a true bigot I gave that opinion having never been to Newtyle. All joking aside I was interested to see what this Drytooling magnet of the north was like but it never gave that much of a pull to warrant a dedicated trip so it was always going to be a secondary option event.
Well the time came about a couple of weeks ago when the weather crapped out on the BMC winter meet. So with the Masses from the meet WG,s regulars Si Frost, Dave Almond and myself went to See what the fuss was aboot !
 |
| finding the holes, thanks to Jen Olsen for the stolen Photo |
First impressions were a little underwhelming and just what I was expecting really ...
Grotty - check
Muddy - check
Overgrown save a few beaten footpaths (see muddy) - check
Dark/ Dank - check
Smacks you in the face with lethargy - check
Irrationally cold - check
I think all of the above are somewhat compulsory criteria for a drytooling crag no matter where you are.
Newtyle, not unepxectantly, felt a little like the welsh slate tooling areas if you took all of the joy out of the world and played a looped tape of little girls sobbing. Kalymnos it was not.
Drilled pockets, Bomber placements, dictated spans and no options of intermediates or alternatives do little to enthuse a dwarf with a negative ape index, so standing at the foot of the routes in the Fast and Furious area I wasn't exactly over run with enthusiasm. What little I had was quickly kicked in the balls as I watched Mr Boswell warm, every move looked massive and dynamic, huge swings linking each sequence of more powerful moves... eek Time to Run home boy
once on the routes, route finding is tricky, the dim light and invisible pockets add a certain element but you soon get used to the dynamic nature of the climbing and as long as you have intimate knowledge of the routes or have someone at hand to shout at you then the climbing is very good and extremely engaging.
The Grading it always about the grades isnt it.
The grades at newtyle we found were very comparable to those at the goods which surprised me immensely considering that we just plucked some numbers out of the air when putting up the first few routes and subsequently grade all the others with reference to them.
 |
| Torch Lite M11 a Torch and a rain hat would be handy Photo - James Dunn |
So my verdict (in true political manner)
Both have merits;
WG - for true Scottish style mixed, learning to trust your placements, getting strong
Newtyle - for turning you into a beast and giving you the mother of all calf burns
for a man who doesn't like drilled routes I had a blast....oh and so I dont upset James and he takes back his photos
"Newtyle is Better".......... ;)
Sunday, 15 January 2012
Monday, 9 January 2012
Was Scotland Closed ?
You would have thought so if you visited the Goods this weekend. I know in the past we have joked about our little crag being busy but Blimey! Sunday was practically sold out.
With weather driving myself and Dave Almond back from Scotland early we had decided to head out to the Goods and meet up with Ramon for some real climbing.
Ramon as ever was in full get strong mode in Prep for his Trip to Europe in the next couple of weeks and had driven up from London with Young Will Hardy. From the Luxury of his pop up tent pitched just off the road Ramon could prepare for his assault on the crag. When we arrived he was already Brewing his first coffee and while he supped this he spoke about his ascent of what was the lip project in the power pact area. As Ramon himself reported, Tim Emmett made the first Ascent just weeks ago naming it “Stump man” and Giving it a proposed M10+ . Ramon only took two goes to get the tick which is an indication of just how strong he is getting and with this significant second ascent I am without a doubt that he will be ticking his goal of Mission Impossible later this year.
Young Will also looked please with himself as he told us about his ascent of Jaz M8
As we moved up to the crag we noticed another Pair already on Warming up “Christ its only 9.30am”
Malcolm Bass and Paul (sorry didn’t catch your surname) had like ourselves planned on a trip to Scotland, with the forecast being somewhat Shite the pair changed Direction headed south from North Yorkshire and ended up at our Damp and dirty little not so secret.
While we all played on our respective Routes of choice, more parties arrived and from Sheffield this time. People are traveling to this place.
The Sheffield Crew Did well and a number of them quickly made short work of Left Wall and Jaz before giving Left Over Goods a bloody good effort as the light faded.
I have to say it put a smile on my face to see everyone there enjoying themselves and appreciating the work we have all put in to turn this Shity fly tipping area into a drytooling asset. Well done to all involved.
While myself and Dave socialized Ramon continued his crag onslaught Lapping the “Finnsh Start M10”, and “White Goods M8+” and ticking “Left Over Goods M9+”
Thats will be why he’s so strong then.
“no one ever did anything by sitting on the couch” Ramon
With weather driving myself and Dave Almond back from Scotland early we had decided to head out to the Goods and meet up with Ramon for some real climbing.
Ramon as ever was in full get strong mode in Prep for his Trip to Europe in the next couple of weeks and had driven up from London with Young Will Hardy. From the Luxury of his pop up tent pitched just off the road Ramon could prepare for his assault on the crag. When we arrived he was already Brewing his first coffee and while he supped this he spoke about his ascent of what was the lip project in the power pact area. As Ramon himself reported, Tim Emmett made the first Ascent just weeks ago naming it “Stump man” and Giving it a proposed M10+ . Ramon only took two goes to get the tick which is an indication of just how strong he is getting and with this significant second ascent I am without a doubt that he will be ticking his goal of Mission Impossible later this year.
Young Will also looked please with himself as he told us about his ascent of Jaz M8
As we moved up to the crag we noticed another Pair already on Warming up “Christ its only 9.30am”
Malcolm Bass and Paul (sorry didn’t catch your surname) had like ourselves planned on a trip to Scotland, with the forecast being somewhat Shite the pair changed Direction headed south from North Yorkshire and ended up at our Damp and dirty little not so secret.
While we all played on our respective Routes of choice, more parties arrived and from Sheffield this time. People are traveling to this place.
The Sheffield Crew Did well and a number of them quickly made short work of Left Wall and Jaz before giving Left Over Goods a bloody good effort as the light faded.
I have to say it put a smile on my face to see everyone there enjoying themselves and appreciating the work we have all put in to turn this Shity fly tipping area into a drytooling asset. Well done to all involved.
While myself and Dave socialized Ramon continued his crag onslaught Lapping the “Finnsh Start M10”, and “White Goods M8+” and ticking “Left Over Goods M9+”
Thats will be why he’s so strong then.
“no one ever did anything by sitting on the couch” Ramon
Sunday, 1 January 2012
Mr. Emmett climbs the "Lip Project"
Tim on his first attempt of "Stump Man". Any clues for the name
On the 30th of December Tim Emmett climbed the Lip Project on the Power Pact cave. He called it "Stump Man" and he hasn't given a grade yet, but talks were of M10+. My guess is that it took him three attempts, as I was there for the first two and I assume he sent it the next time, as he would have done it the second attempt if he hadn't dropped his tool. If I get more news, I'll post them up.
On a different note, I'm updating the current topos to reflect all the recent developments. So please if you have any recent addition, pictures or opinion on grades, please let me know at ramonmarin2@yahoo.es
Happy cranking folks
Ramon
Tim started the Lip Project from the start of Mental Block, which I think it's harder but safer. Some loose rock on the start of the Lip Project
A lot of fig4 and fig9 action
Finding the first blind hook after the ledge is tricky
Thursday, 22 December 2011
Left Wall Shocker
I didnt believe it but its true Pete Harrison has only bloody gone and done it.
It seems the poor winter conditions have sent this man insane, not only has he gone and Drytooled his way up LEFT WALL ...but he bolted the fecking thing aswell.
"Left Wall" takes the obvious wall on the left of the Grotty corner we call "Cenotaph" in the kitchen Garden area at white Goods.
at M5+/M6 it will make a popular addition to the area I am sure.
Especially with the tropical weather we are having at the moment. I will post some photos of the area as soon as I get some.
It seems the poor winter conditions have sent this man insane, not only has he gone and Drytooled his way up LEFT WALL ...but he bolted the fecking thing aswell.
"Left Wall" takes the obvious wall on the left of the Grotty corner we call "Cenotaph" in the kitchen Garden area at white Goods.
at M5+/M6 it will make a popular addition to the area I am sure.
Especially with the tropical weather we are having at the moment. I will post some photos of the area as soon as I get some.
Wednesday, 14 December 2011
Awesome Walls Drytooling Comp 24th March 2012
Ladies, Gents, Beauties and Beasties. Just a quickie
I don't know how but we have done it.... Awesome Walls Liverpool have just told me that they are going to put on a Drytooling Event.
With the assistance of Pete Hill (drytooling uk) They will be hosting what they hope to be the biggest Drytooling competition this side of the border.
With the heats consisting of Boulder problems and top roping routes and the Finals held on the Awesome Back wall it should be a good event.
Keep the 24th March 2012 free in your calendar ... Maybe you could make a weekend of it and we could all head to the Goods the next day to really polish us off.
Mammut Drytooling Festival Awesome Walls
I don't know how but we have done it.... Awesome Walls Liverpool have just told me that they are going to put on a Drytooling Event.
With the assistance of Pete Hill (drytooling uk) They will be hosting what they hope to be the biggest Drytooling competition this side of the border.
With the heats consisting of Boulder problems and top roping routes and the Finals held on the Awesome Back wall it should be a good event.
Keep the 24th March 2012 free in your calendar ... Maybe you could make a weekend of it and we could all head to the Goods the next day to really polish us off.
Mammut Drytooling Festival Awesome Walls
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